Surfing is one of those things that can only be described to an extent; the rest of it, you just have to experience for yourself. For a seemingly physically intensive activity, surfers report that it can be meditative and therapeutic since it allows them to clear their minds and focus on the present moment. It's peaceful and calming, provides a sense of escape from the demands of daily life, and instills a sense of community and camaraderie that comes with the friendships we build with other surfers.
Find a beginner-friendly beach
Look for a beach with small, slow-moving waves suitable for beginners. You can also check with a local surf shop or surf school to get recommendations for good beginner spots.
Get the right equipment
You will need an appropriate surfboard for your size and skill level. If you are just starting, you may want to use a larger, more stable board that is easier to balance. You will also need a wetsuit to protect you from the cold water and a leash to keep you connected to your surfboard.
Learn the basics and practice your skills
There are several skills you’ll need to practice and master in order to be good at surfing, some of which are listed as follows:
- Paddling: Paddling is the most important skill in surfing. You will need to learn how to use your hands and arms to paddle efficiently and effectively to get out to the lineup and catch waves.
- Catching a wave: To catch a wave, you will need to paddle hard to get up to speed and position yourself in the right spot to catch the wave as it breaks. You will also need to learn how to judge the size and power of the wave and how to read the surf conditions.
- Standing up: Once you catch a wave, you must pop up quickly and smoothly onto your feet. To do this, you must push up with your hands, bring your back foot to the surfboard's tail, and then stand up with your front foot.
- Balance: Balancing on a surfboard requires good core stability and leg strength. You will need to practice shifting your weight and using your feet to control the surfboard as you ride the wave.
- Turning: To turn the surfboard, you need to shift your weight and use your feet to steer the board in the desired direction. You can turn by leaning your body or using your back foot to apply pressure to the board's tail.
Practice safety
As a crazy Russian YouTuber always said, safety is number one priority! Remember to always surf in a safe area and follow all local rules and regulations. To be extra safe, wear a leash and a wetsuit, and use the knowledge you’ve gained thus far to avoid hazards and stay safe in the water. With that, we're ending this guide on surfing; we hope this has been helpful to you, and until next time, good luck!